The Juchitan
is the story of two women from a caste iron, two copies generations who conquered with their season and a very traditional recipe over the years, they won, thanks to its humanitarian gesture, simplicity, and humility, the love of a land that welcomed them and their daughters ... And shaped them and their history: Tapachula loving and sharing his heart between two borders, Chiapas and Oaxaca ...
By Carlos Morán
Dolores López Marín really do not remember at what point he entered the kitchen says he was born between these aromas and flavors without knowing that eventually would inherit from his mother who was born in that time the Isthmus of Tehuantepec, Rancho precisely Gubin, a picturesque town with a rich culture that is crossed by rivers and Chicapa Holy Spirit, and is today known as Union Hidalgo, Oaxaca.
Dolores López Marín really do not remember at what point he entered the kitchen says he was born between these aromas and flavors without knowing that eventually would inherit from his mother who was born in that time the Isthmus of Tehuantepec, Rancho precisely Gubin, a picturesque town with a rich culture that is crossed by rivers and Chicapa Holy Spirit, and is today known as Union Hidalgo, Oaxaca.
The story begins in 1920 with the birth of Mrs. Esther López Marín, who was only a year-old girl left her hometown of Union Hidalgo, left hand of the bold and courageous aunt Nemesia Marin, who helped her get on the train with a stop in Tonala, Chiapas. Like all istmeña not pursuing a dream, I just wanted to conquer life in the midst of a country where the conditions were not equal to today, at a time that many women in the rest of the country had to fight prejudice, fear and hardship that faced with the macho world ...
So in the long journey back and forth, from fair to fair and celebration feast, Esther López Marín was learning the best profession in the world that not only satisfy hunger puts the soul in peace, but above all, grew overcoming the fear of life, including pots and pans, frying of Garnacha and art to forge a destiny to pulse until it became self-sufficient woman.
The year was 1940 when Esther López Marín, who had 20 years old, arrived in Tapachula and lavishes on earth did what he could do, to establish a small business that became street fairs traveling close and even cross the border to several Central American countries and offer the best of your kitchen until one day, January 1, 1963, he dared to open "The Juchitan", a simple restaurant in addition to serving the specialty of the house, became the space where many women, coming from his homeland, were helped by this woman, who also give them shelter and work, instructed in what she learned in the way of life, without jealousy or rivalry future because his conscience and dictated it.
course before, Mrs. Esther gave birth to two daughters, Silvia and Dolores were born and registered in Rancho Gubin, complementing the large family of seven nephews who became his nine children.
Lolita, affectionately known as the daughter of this Christian woman who met with their children, friends and countrymen, he inherited from his mother (Dona Esther) that unique culinary tradition, but also the humanitarian gesture continued his countrymen and all who have come to this "Empire of Garnacha" where they find shelter, work and space to continue.
is she who can not remember at what point he entered the kitchen because it was part of their daily lives, just that he was born there, watching her mother work and grew as it integrated the life, so it was still involved of this family business over the years he inherited. Dolores López Marín studied primary school Fray Matías de Córdova and then traveled to Mexico City where he learned dressmaking.
Convinced of its ultimate destination, returned to Tapachula and joined The Juchitán, the business of his mother, who alternated his work in the restaurant being in special occasions delight your kitchen at fairs ... It was 30 years ago when Mrs. Martha Cruz, offers the space in the 5 th Poniente No. 21 B, which had aclient and becomes owner of the property until the day today remains a meeting point at that time that we identified.
But not all work, love and also rocked Dolores López Marín, when he was thirty-five, she married Jorge Cordova Ibarías, who bore him a daughter whom he named Gilda Janeth a daughter who of course did not break with tradition.
Coming of a race where women are the mainstay of society, but above all, a caste in which women always show with husband or not, can survive while maintaining their values, dignity and decorum, confirmed that business is not unique men. She says that being young, alternated his work and was not limited only to the kitchen but also operated sewing and other crafts in her spare time, he was and began paying a future that was not intended exaggerated profits, but forged a heritage what a child learned to do.
She is one of many women who narrates passages from his life similar to many that rise thinking early in the day job, starting the day with shopping in the market for slaughter after 10 to 15 chicken ranch today that are the raw material for your kitchen.
Yes, Dolores since she learned to twist the neck of the chickens, pluck them, pass them by fire to remove any lint, break them and cook them with the secrets of always, take stock and to hold the meat ... His hands memelitas cake were domesticated and halved, dropping gracefully over the beef and fry them seal them with a rich cheese sauce and dry the crown is so popular delicacy in southeastern Mexico: The Garnacha.
Dolores López Marín, speaking of work, parties, large celebrations and of course, his native does not forget. It was thus decided to meet on Monday in The Juchitan ", its new space recently remodeled after serious incidents that did not give up and, while selecting a memelitas which started in the middle and was placing them on an iron skillet with hot light oil I kept telling him that I share with you today.
not know the precise moment, grew with the culture of work, going to school and in his spare time was integrated into the kitchen of his mother, by that time she honed her and knew all the secrets of life, work and how to avoid everyday problems without losing the joy.
Although not speak of the secrets of their cuisine, their joy and optimism is printed on each plate cooking. No presumption but proud ensures the success of their dinner of chicken, because the meat is chicken ranch, the memelitas natural corn that makes the wine grapes are made in the restaurant and the mole, is a family recipe born in the land she loves, Union Hidalgo.
For 48 years, Lolita and her mother, who died in December 1994, founded the "Empire of Garnacha and chicken dinners "over the years became one of the icons of our city. Lolita has never forgotten his roots because every day, every dish in each service and each guest receives, shares this delicious reminders of their homeland and that word of mouth have brought fame and prestige, thanks to fate that brought them to this promised land where they conquered and learned to love its flavor.
In Tapachula, "The Juchitan" is an institution in Panamanian food has been the site of where they graduate with sufficient preparation many other women who have open spaces with the same specialty, except that each one with its particular touch and the secret that every woman can impose. The Juchitán is undoubtedly the place to which everyone, including tourists and tapachulteco, because these parts become fried chicken seasoned with tomato and onion, placed on a bed of fries and accompanied by wine grapes or enchiladas, is our tradition.
My interviewee can not do anything but work and live life as God ordains. She says the job gives him enough joy for living, not working to be rich because it is, has friends, health, hard work and a daughter by profession and a new restaurant now open from early to start the day serving breakfast, and if the nostalgia trap, arranges his suitcases and left for Union Hill, to visit relatives and take a breath of the land that gave birth.
To contact Dona Lolita mark June 5, 1985 62
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Lolita and I confirm that the name "The Juchitan" is exclusive to the region, because in fact the native Juchitán or that region, there are called "Tecas" no "Juche" . We talked for about ninety minutes of cooking, traditions, his taste for parties where it looks beautiful embroidered dress worn as ornament chains of solid gold coins. He has been steward and one of the important pillars of the Oaxacan Social Circle, his daughter Gilda Janeth, who was born and has also grown with the same culture, a lover of the traditions of Central and love will continue this family legacy.
Lolita Lopez Marin is 68 years old, was born on April 16, 1943 and is not intended to retire but his daughter, who is an educator, as did his mother, in her spare time enter the restaurant to continue tradition. Lolita speaks and understands the Zapotec never forget the scent of flowers guiechache of his people, he loves parties and according to her in the kitchen there are 10 ingredients, and the joy, not to be missed: red tomatoes, onion, garlic, oil, chicken ranch for "dinner", memelitas corn, cheese, preferably dry San Dionisio del Mar, shredded beef for wine grapes, salt and pepper.
Union Hidalgo Oaxaca (formerly Rancho Gubin meaning "Rancho poor") is located 12 kilometers from Oaxaca Juchitán is a village of fishermen and farmers who have a 5 km a dead sea called "Union" and as a stream "the stalled", "I guided Estero" south of Lake Superior. 80% of the population speaks Zapotec. It is a picturesque village of people who were born to be happy, live and work all year to celebrate the patron saint and other saints and that, years do not pass, is a village frozen in spite of modernity remains a generous people site where the noise sounds like
FIESTA 
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